Kevin Gibson wrote:
Snake45 wrote:
2. Very difficult to get a good trigger pull on a P.35, and it's got nothing to do with the "complicated" trigger linkage (which isn't really complicated at all, it's actually ingeniously simple).
This is a common misconception, once the magazine disconnect is removed, the Hi Power is no more difficult to do a trigger job on than a 1911. You can get lighter trigger pulls with the 1911, but once you get under about 2.5lbs I think your gun is a range toy.
I agree that it
shouldn't be harder to do a trigger job on than a 1911, and in fact it
should theoretically be
easier, because the sear breaks perpendicular to the axis of recoil instead of parallel to it, meaning that no amount of slide jolt should knock it off. Agreed about that light of a trigger pull. I'm not interested in anything under 3-3.5 pounds even for a range toy, and for an actual social gun, I prefer 4-5 pounds. 4-5 pounds is very easy to get with a 1911, but takes some REAL work to get down to with P.35. IME, anyway.
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Snake45 wrote:
It's because the mainspring is an important part of the recoil-absorbing system for that wonderfully slim, light slide. The factory spec on the mainspring is a stunning 32 pounds. By comparison, a stiff USGI 1911 mainspring is 24 pounds, and "target" mainsprings of 18 pounds (or even less) will reliably run the gun. The stronger the mainspring, the more pressure on the hammer/sear interface, and hence the heavier the trigger pull. You can put a lighter mainspring in a P.35, but it will be at the expense of the gun's life. The lighter you go, the faster you'll crack either the slide or the frame.
Okay, some truth here and some non-truths. The P-35 does NOT need a 32lb mainspring, and for the first half of the P-35's life, it didn't have the 32lb mainspring. IIRC, the 32lb mainspring was added at the request of the British who encountered some Egyptian SMG ammo that wouldnt reliably work in their P-35's because the primers were so hard. Since the Hi Power has always been a military pistol first and foremost, the engineers at FN decided to just make the 32lb mainspring standard (IIRC, beginning with the 1965 model). True, it does help slow the slide some and will add to a longer life. But if you take it down to 28 or 25, I can guarantee you that the P-35 will out-last you and probably your child provided you stick with standard pressure ammunition.
I seem to recall that the original spec on the hammer spring was 26 or 27 pounds before they went to 32, which is still a couple pounds over a full-strength GI 1911 spring, which almost no one uses anymore. Agreed you don't need that much spring to set off modern commercial ammo. I think you can buy reduced power P.35 springs down to 22 pounds, (IIRC), but the same spring maker offers them for 1911 down to 16 (again, IIRC). I have NO idea what the rating is on the spring in my .22 right now because I started with something else and cut it. Haven't shot it with 9mm since I got the Ciener unit but my impression is that .22LR ammo is actually HARDER to set off reliably than CF so I should still be okay, at least as regards ignition.
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Snake45 wrote:
3. Thumb safety isn't as well placed on P.35 as on 1911, and it doesn't work as well, and it's much more complicated to fit or alter (although it has been done).
I agree, and with the exception of the very short lived Novak thumb stafety, there have been few good replacements. The C&S is an exact copy of the one that Sarco made back in the '70's, and I wouldn't be surprised if it actually IS the same one. I have welded up a couple to make them right, but it's a lot of work. The factory Browning ambi-safety is just shy of an abomination. If you hold a pistol with a high thumb hold, the factory ambi will tear you up. Since I'm lazy these days, I just substitute the C&S, which is good, but not great.
Sarco made P.35 thumb safeties? Interesting. Never heard of that. I have one from Fed-Ord I bought on a blister pack. I think I had to buy it in combo with an extended slide stop, which I've never used. Unfortunately, it doesn't work on my gun--it goes in, but when it's on, you can pull the trigger and the hammer will drop, which I deem to be Not A Good Thing.
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As for fitting, I find that the P-35 fitting procedure is just about the same as the 1911; it's a piece of cake.
You must know some trick I don't. At least with a 1911, you can assemble it without the grip safety and look in there and see what the thumb safety is interfering with--can't do that with a P.35.
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Snake45 wrote:
4. P.35 is MUCH more difficult to disassemble and/or work on than 1911. While a 1911 can be taken down to the bare frame with NO tools, and reassembled with nothing more than a pencil or ballpoint pen or paper clip, you almost need three hands and a bench vise to strip a P.35 (not really, but you'll WISH you had them), and a tool or two (such as a narrow drift punch or equivalent).
Now I've worked on nearly 10,000 Hi Powers. In the early '80's I worked for the importer of most of the Inglis Hi Powers from WW II, and I had to disassemble and reassemble just about all of them, because we re-Parked them all. Taking them apart is not hard at all, but yes, you do need one pin punch. Putting them back together is rough though because it takes some serious finesse to get the sear and ejector back in the gun. When working at Pacific International, we fashioned a metal clothes pin (for lack of a better term), to hold the hammer while putting the gun back together; this made it a snap.
True, taking anything apart isn't that difficult, it's putting it back together. I CAN strip and reassemble a P.35; I just dread it every time I have to do it. I can do a 1911 in my favorite TV chair while watching TV. The P.35 I have to do upstairs, on the kitchen table, with plenty of room and good light. It's not a casual operation.